Manaslu Circuit Trek

Driving time: 6 to 7 hours. Wake up early and drive to Arughat through the countryside – beautiful landscape, rivers, mountains and small villages. The Kathmandu valley is busy with traffic; after crossing Thankot the road is quieter and the scenery is beautiful all the way to Arughat. After arriving we catch the next bus or jeep to Soti Khola, another 2 hours' drive. Overnight at hotel.

Trekking time: 6 to 7 hours. After breakfast we cross the bridge and trek through beautiful sal forests, then climb onto a ridge above huge rapids on the Budhi Gandaki and reach Khursane. The rocky trail weaves its way up and down, past two tropical waterfalls, on a steep trail clinging to the side of a cliff. It eventually makes its way down past a few rice terraces, then up and around to the Gurung village of Labubesi. We climb behind a rocky outcrop, where the valley opens and the Budhi Gandaki meanders among wide gravel bars. Dropping to the sandy river bed, we walk along rounded stones before climbing over a side ridge. We head down again to the river and traverse to Machha Khola village. Overnight at hotel.

Trekking time: 7 to 8 hours. The narrow trail makes some minor ups and downs and eventually crosses the Tharo Khola, flowing in a rocky ravine, then reaches Khorlabesi. After a few more ups and downs there is a small trailside hot spring at Tatopani. From the hot spring we climb over another ridge, then cross the Budhi Gandaki on a suspension bridge. We climb a wide, well-crafted staircase, then cross a landslide and a ridge to Dobhan. Upon crossing a suspension bridge over the Yaru Khola, we climb stone stairs, drop to the river and again climb more stone stairs to Tharo Bharyang. Crossing to the west bank of the Budhi Gandaki, we climb over a ridge, trek along the river and then climb towards the village of Jagat. Overnight at hotel.

Trekking time: 7 to 8 hours. We begin by climbing over a rocky ridge to Salleri, and then descend to Setibas. The valley widens a bit as the trail continues up to Ghatta Khola. We continue upstream to a long suspension bridge and climb up to Philim, a large Gurung village. The trail turns north just above the lowest house in the village and stays fairly level as it traverses millet fields to Ekle Bhatti. Beyond Ekle Bhatti the route enters a steep, uninhabited gorge. We descend the grassy slopes, cross the Budhi Gandaki, trek along the west bank for a while, then cross to the east bank and back again. As we keep walking the valley widens through bamboo forests to the Deng Khola. Upon crossing the khola we reach the tiny village of Deng. Overnight at hotel.

Trekking time: 6 to 7 hours. After an early breakfast we walk beyond Deng, cross the Budhi Gandaki on to the north bank and then climb to Rana at 1,910 m. From the bridge we climb a bit to join a trail from Bhi, then head west up the Budhi Gandaki valley. Making ups and downs in forests, we pass mani walls and turn a corner that contours to Ghap. We take the route through Prok village, which has a viewpoint with a beautiful view of Siringi Himal. We cross the Budhi Gandaki several times today and come across several gompas en route. The trail follows the river upstream through dense forest. After crossing the river at an impressive spot where it thunders down a narrow gorge, the forest becomes less dense and the trail is fine again. The pleasant walk continues and after a last steep climb we reach Namrung. Overnight at hotel.

Trekking time: 4 to 5 hours. Namrung village is a good viewpoint for Siring Himal and Ganesh Himal, and to the south rises Himal Chuli, a huge peak. There is also an MCAP office, health post and police station in Namrung. Climbing steadily in the shade of a forest takes us to Lihi, a fine village with many chortens and barley terraces. Ganesh Himal rises high into the sky when we turn around.

The trail drops and crosses the side valley of Simnang Himal. A chorten with detailed paintings announces Sho, another nice village with fine views up the open valley. We cross a stream shortly after leaving Sho, and one final steep climb takes us to Lho village, with a superb view of Mt Manaslu, where we explore the famous Ribung Gompa. Overnight at hotel.

Trekking time: 4 to 5 hours. The Budhi Gandaki is far below but we follow a small tributary instead. Walking in the shady fir forest is very enjoyable. After a short climb to a plateau we are at Shyala village, surrounded by huge mountains: Himal Chuli and Peak 29 (Ngadi Chuli) to the left, Manaslu and large glaciers straight ahead, other snow summits to the right and, at the far end, Ganesh Himal. From a large chorten we look down into a little dip where two rows of houses form the main part of Sama. At the far end of the village, overlooking the valley, stands the well-known monastery of Sama. Overnight at hotel.

Hiking time: 6 to 7 hours of exploration. We spend the day at Samagaon for rest and acclimatisation. We ponder the thousands of mani stones with Buddhist texts and pictures and meet the village women, who wear a silver spoon as jewellery. On a little hill near Samagaon is an old gompa. We take a side trip to Pungyen Gompa, a monastery with great views of the glacier. It is named after Manaslu; Pungyen means bracelet, a good description of the two peaks. Overnight at hotel.

Trekking time: 4 to 5 hours. Descending to the Budhi Gandaki River, which has turned north, we follow it to a bridge over a side stream. The trail to the left leads to Manaslu Base Camp. The Larkya La trail passes several mani walls as the valley begins to widen. It is an easy trail on a shelf above the river, passing the juniper and birch forests of Kermo Kharka. We drop off the shelf, cross the Budhi Gandaki on a wooden bridge and climb steeply onto a promontory between two forks of the river. From a stone arch we can view a large white kani. Passing through the kani, we find Samdo. Overnight at hotel.

Trekking time: 4 to 5 hours. After breakfast we continue down the edge, cross the wooden bridge over the Budhi Gandaki and begin walking upward. After crossing two streams and seeing the Larkya Glacier, we go around the valley of the Salka Khola and climb up again to the stone guest house (4,450 m), a kind of shelter called Dharmashala, also known as Larkya Phedi, where we spend the night.

Trekking time: 9 to 10 hours. After a short climb we reach the ablation valley on the north side of the Larkya Glaciers, with views of Cho Danda and then of Larkya Peak. We walk across the moraines of the glacier, making a gradual ascent which becomes steeper only in the last section to the pass. From the pass there are outstanding views of Himlung Himal, Cheo Himal, Kangguru and the huge Annapurna II. It is a longer day than usual to Bimthang, but to walk into these low pastures with the evening mist coming in and Manaslu above is an experience not to be missed. Overnight at hotel.

Trekking time: 7 to 8 hours. From a ridge at Bimthang we have very beautiful views of Mt Manaslu, Lamjung Himal, Himlung Himal and Cheo Himal. We walk down and cross the high pasture (Sangure Kharka). Beyond a bridge over the Dudh Khola, we descend into a rhododendron forest and follow a trail through a narrow valley until we reach the highest cultivated land in this valley at Karche (2,785 m). From here we cross a slide, then go across fields before making a steep climb over a ridge. The trail comes off the ridge in a big, sweeping arc to the river bank at 2,580 m. A short distance beyond is the village of Gho. Overnight stay at hotel.

Trekking time: 5 to 6 hours. After breakfast we cross a small bridge to the stone-paved village and wind among its closely spaced houses. Upon leaving the village we cross the Dudh Khola and trek along the river embankment. Crossing a wooden bridge back to the northern side of the Dudh Khola, climbing through a chorten-shaped arch and passing a mani wall, we reach Thonje village. Here we go through a police checkpoint and then continue to Dharapani, where we enter the Annapurna Circuit section. Further down we come across Karte village and, after quite a bit of walking, cross a bridge over the Marsyangdi Khola. We pass some mani walls before reaching the village of Tal, situated at the foot of a large waterfall, where there is an ACAP office. Overnight at hotel.

Trekking time: 6 to 7 hours. The trail continues to Chyamje, crossing the Marsyangdi Khola once again. The Marsyangdi valley opens, with terraced fields on its banks and villages clinging very high to the hillsides. The trail then descends through forests of rhododendron and pine to Syange, where we spend the night.

Trekking time: 4 to 5 hours. The last trekking day follows the river, passing villages and crossing on a suspension bridge, through local houses and up-and-down terraced landscapes, with chances to see a big waterfall on the way. A 40-minute steep climb takes us up to Bahundanda for lunch; then we trek down and walk gently up to Bhulbhule for the overnight stay.

Driving time: 6 to 7 hours. After breakfast we drive back to Kathmandu along the banks of the Marsyangdi and Trishuli rivers, with splendid views of green hills, mountains, farming terraces and villages on both sides of the road.